needlework

A most attractive Catholic primer for the communion, evidently bound as a gift with an unusual Berlin work embroidered panel. ‘Berlin wool work is embroidery with Berlin wools or any type of thread or beads on canvas by means of copying a coloured chart known as a Berlin pattern. Almost exclusively confined to the 19th century, Berlin wool derived its name from the wool that came from Merino sheep in Saxony. It was taken to Gotha to be spun and on to Berlin to be dyed... Prior to the introduction of Berlin patterns it was very rare to find any indication about the choice of colour or threads. Berlin patterns were always coloured by hand at first, until the emergence of industrial printing techniques’ (V&A). Though the style originated in Germany, Berlin work was enthusiastically practised by women all over Europe and in North America

A striking needlework pattern for Berlin-work. ‘Berlin wool work is embroidery with Berlin wools or any type of thread or beads on canvas by means of copying a coloured chart known as a Berlin pattern. Almost exclusively confined to the 19th century, Berlin wool derived its name from the wool that came from Merino sheep in Saxony. It was taken to Gotha to be spun and on to Berlin to be dyed... Prior to the introduction of Berlin patterns it was very rare to find any indication about the choice of colour or threads. Berlin patterns were always coloured by hand at first, until the emergence of industrial printing techniques’ (V&A). Though the patterns (which rarely survive) usually originated in Germany, Berlin work was enthusiastically practised by women all over Europe and in North America.

Sole edition of the small catalogue issued to accompany Monnier’s needlework exhibition at the Galerie Druet at 20, rue Royale, ‘Du lundi 5 mai au vendredi 30 mai 1924’. Copy number 13 of 15 on Japon (before 25 on Hollande and 100 on ordinary paper, total edition 140 copies).

It lists just 14 pieces (1918-1923) including some of her most celebrated pieces including a set of four tarot images, l’Abeille and Palme (illustrating Valéry) and Féerie, after Léon-Paul Fargue. Valéry wrote in his preface: ‘Mais considérez ces panneaux merveilleusement colorés. Leur éclat les apparente aux plus merveilleuses productions de la vie, aux élytres, aux plumes d’oiseau, aux coquillages, aux pétales. Nulle peinture ne peut atteindre à ces forces ni à ces délicatesses que les brins de soie savamment associés font paraître’.

Marie Monnier was the wife of the artist Paul-Émile Bécat and sister of bookseller-publisher Adrienne Monnier (Sylvia Beach’s partner). Marie exhibited both in her sister’s bookshop and at the Galerie Druet. She also created a large embroidery inspired by Joyce’s Finnegan’s Wake and painted one of the famous signboards for Shakespeare and Company (now at Princeton). Worldcat lists US copies at Harvard and Princeton (three copies in the Sylvia Beach collection).