The manuscript recollections of a Georgian gap-year visit to Paris, the chateaux of the Loire and the cities of Belgium and Holland, made by a cultivated young Englishman. Richard Liddell (or Lyddell) (?1694-1746), of Wakehurst Place, Sussex was the son of a commissioner of the navy who was a friend of Pepys. He matriculated at Christ Church, Oxford, on 3 June 1712, at the age of approximately 17, then entered the Middle Temple in the same year, then spent the year between May 1715 and May 1716 travelling on the continent, as outlined in the present manuscript. He was among the first wave of English Grand Tourists heading to the continent in the aftermath of the peace heralded by the 1713 Treaty of Utrecht. He inherited the family estates in 1720 following his mother's death, after they had passed to her upon his father’s death on 19 November 1717, including Wakehurst Place, Sussex.
Lyddell was a perceptive observer and the manuscript contains interesting descriptions of the architecture and culture in Paris in the year of the death of Louis XIV, including descriptions of recently completed monuments, of the Opéra and Comédie, of libraries and galleries, and eyewitness accounts of a service taken by Cardinal de Noailles in a recently refurbished Notre Dame and of the activities of the flamboyant Persian ambassador Méhémet Riza Beg, then recently arrived in Paris. The manuscript, though neat enough, appears to have been composed from recent recollection as Liddell makes his journey, or soon after his return.
Travelling from Calais his first ports of call in Paris are the Louvre, the Tuileries and the Palais Royal, where he describes both architecture and contents. He makes a special study of the huge monument Louis erected to his own glory on the Place Vendôme (which was destroyed in the Revolution) and transcribes the long inscriptions from the plinth. He visits the royal tapestry manufacturies, Les Gobelins, and makes an admiring description of the royal library: ‘... Of all the methods Lewis the 14th took to encrease his fame, there has none been taken more proper to give him glory, or has better succeeded than his collecting a library, and one of the most famous ones that has been heard of. There is not yet a room fitted up for the reception of so valuable, and numerous a collection, but an apartment of the Louvre is talk’d of, to be prepared to that intent. The books are at present in a house hir’d onpPurpose; they fill 26 rooms, as close set as the shelves can be, and are strained for place, the quantity of books encrease so much daily: his collection of prints are esteem’d the best of any either in publick or private libraryes; the number of volumes of prints only are near 400, all acquir’d at great pains and expence, and free for the perusall of any foreigner that comes there.’ There is along description of Versailles, with its mirrored walls and treasures, along with the Trianon, the royal menagerie and the extravagant waterworks at Marly.
Liddell is more descriptive of place and detail than of people, though he shows an interest in catholic ceremony and processions, and he is clearly impressed by the celebrity of De Noailles and Méhémet Riza Beg. Of the latter, he writes:
‘While we were in this City we had an opportunity of often seeing Mehemet Riza Beg, Ambassador from Persia to the French King who is a person of most extraordinary figure, of a sallow complexion with his beard, eyebrows, eyelashes and fingers painted scarlet, which suited oddly the colour of his face and dress of his country which he always wore. He was very dextrous at the Persian diversion of throwing the dart which he often exercis’d himself in. The manner of it is, in some spacious place riding full gallop one after another for one of the foremost, to turn short and dart at the person who pursues them and afterwards to be so nimble in their escape as to avoid the darts of the others...’
Liddell later gained the reputation of a rake, charming yet superficial, according to contemporary accounts, and finding real notoriety in November 1729 when he was surprised in adultery with Lady Abergavenny by her husband, who was awarded £10,000 damages against him. The salacious account of his trial was widely published. In order to avoid paying the damages, he appears to have made over his estates to his younger brother Charles and gone travelling again. In December 1733 Lord Ailesbury reported from Brussels: ‘Mr. Liddell here is a very pretty gentleman and well bred... No doubt he has a good estate, as one may judge by appearance in going to all countries to divert himself, and as he told me Lord Abergavenny should never have a shilling of his money (History of Parliament). Liddell was nonetheless elected as one of two Members of Parliament for the borough of Bossiney in Cornwall on 12 May 1741 and Chief Secretary for Ireland on 8 January 1745.
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